This collection is very particular; it stems from the idea of achieving volume from the intervention and handling of textile. Inspiration was sought in the works of the young English architect Thomas Heatherwick, well known for innovation in materials and engineering in a natural scenery such as the Grand Canyon in the United States, and an ancient culture that developed there and left us remains of its magnificent architecture, the Anasazi , who gave name to my collection.
The main challenge to fulfill my goal of manipulating and intervening textiles and then sculpt them, was to give the textile more body, that way every fabric becomes starched. Then I started working with different types of textiles (woolen cloth, silk, chiffon) from what had emerged from the investigation of images of inspiration. With all this I started working and everything had its degree of complexity, since not only I had to starch tons of meters of fabric but also sculpt them to actually give them the volume and shape I wanted to achieve. My intention with this collection is not selling the product, but use it as a means of awareness. What I seek is to highlight the importance of knowledge and research as fundamental tools for innovation and development that will expand competitiveness in the textile area.
The message I try to convey as a designer is to encourage a new approach , where reflection and questioning prevail, as actions that promote thinking, actions that are truly transformed. To question , we need to be curious, we need to have a critical sense. What it really moves the world are not the answers but the questions continued . "The possibilities for innovation are as wide as we are able to imagine ... "
Art Fashion Collection : Berenice
My design proposal is inspired by Edgar Allan Poe and his story " Berenice" . With elements inspired by the concept of the beautiful and the sublime , under the influence of dark romanticism and the gothic novel, Poe creates a character that embodies terror and feminine power. Berenice , the collection, is modeled under the influence of this artistic movement. To better understand the context in which Poe's story and its relation to the collection emerges is essential to recognize their origin and the stage in which it arose.
The Beautiful and Sublime
The categories of beautiful and sublime were introduced by Kant in 1764. A century later, Poe defined poetry as "the rhythmical creation of beauty" , with a single judge : taste. The beauty is , according to the writer , an element having an impetuous power in the supernatural. Parallel to the idea of the beautiful , the category of the sublime arises , generating an aesthetic revolution into the romanticist movement. " The category of beauty , typical of classicism , was threatened by an aesthetic that broke the prescribed frameworks and advocated the darkness , lack of proportions , and experience the shadow of terror."
" Berenice" thus emerges in an atmosphere where the main premise is : " everything is beautiful sublime , but not everything beautiful is sublime. " The horror arises from the sublime and hence the terrifying nature of Poe's tale . Berenice is a powerful female figure who embodies terror " absurdity takes over the intelligence and ruled with dreadful logic , hysteria usurps the place to the will , the contradiction between the nerves and the spirit and man occurs it disconcerts to the point of expressing pain with laughter.
The Gothic Experience
Gothic art was born in France in the second half of the twelfth century , it has its apogee in the thirteenth century and lasted until the late fifteenth century . In architecture it stands out for the construction of cathedrals , like Notre Dame, Reims, Saint Denis and Paris Chapel . It is characterized by many decorative elements, rosettes, gables , sculptures, gargoyles or drains fantastic shapes. Another characteristic uniqueness are the windows that distribute and graduate light, ending with the gloom within the previous cathedrals Romantic style, creating a space transfigured , idealized
The characteristics of the Gothic literary genre that best describe related and Poe and his work are: Characters dominated by their passions , intelligent and enigmatic , always attractive , sometimes punished by guilt. World of dreams and nightmares, alternating between reality and unreality . abundant descriptions.
The theories of Romanticism proclaimed the universal value of feeling and the creative power of genius, which goes beyond the rules. In the romantic art they are based on three fundamental concepts : freedom, sincerity and spontaneity. Edgar Allan Poe was not any kind of romantic. The author created a literary subgenre called dark romanticism , which can be seen throughout his work. The main feature is the transcendentalism , which distrusts the innate perfection of human beings. His characters are prone to sin and self-destruction.
Under the dark romanticism of Poe comes Berenice , a woman like many others embodied in the stories of the writer . " Bright and sick , dying of strange evils , and speak with a musical voice They are also the representation of Poe , or at least , they involved much of the nature of its creator. "